Tana Ramsay's Smoked Haddock Cullen Skink

Think of my dishes as culinary versions of ‘wrap up warm’ and ‘kiss it better’…

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   1. Choose a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Melt the butter in the pan on a low-medium heat, add the onions and fry for 5 minutes, until softening. Add the potatoes and continue to fry for another 5 minutes or so until they are just beginning to soften. Add the milk and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
   2. Lay the haddock on top of the potatoes and milk, folding the thin end of the tail underneath, if necessary, so it fits in the pan. Cover with the lid and reduce the heat to a minimum so that it is barely simmering. Cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Keep the lid on and leave for a further 10 minutes, until the haddock is just cooked.
   3. Remove the haddock from the pan, place on a plate and leave until cool enough to handle. Flake the flesh, discarding the skin and any bones. Return the fish to the pan, season with pepper and a little salt if necessary, and stir gently to combine. Add the cream and slowly bring back to the boil.
   4. Serve in warm bowls, garnished with chives and ground black pepper, and accompanied by plenty of crusty brown bread.